Across the Fence: John Colter, the first mountain man

In the early 1930s, Idaho farmer William Beard was clearing a field in Tetonia, Idaho, just west of the Teton Mountain Range. While working the field William unearthed a rock of rhyolite lava in the shape of the profile of a man's head. The stone, 13 inches long, 8 inches wide and about 4 inches thick, is carved with the name "John Colter" on one side and the date "1808" on the other. It is possible that the Colter Stone may well be a piece of rock graffiti carved by John Colter himself. Experts allow that the inscriptions were likely etched into the stone in the year indicated, but it is virtually impossible to prove that the stone was actually carved by Colter.

John Colter is generally credited with having discovered and explored the region that is known today as Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Park during the winter of 1807-08. If it could be proven that the stone was inscribed by Colter it would doubtless be considered a priceless artifact. In 1933 William Beard traded the rock to A. C. Lyon in exchange for a pair of boots. Mr. Lyon in turn presented the rock to the Grand Teton National Park.

If the stone were ever proven to have been carved by John Colter it would verify that he was in that area in the very early 1800s and that he had crossed the Teton range and into present day Idaho as he had described to William Clark.

John Colter was born near the town of Stuarts Draft, Virginia sometime around 1774 and moved westward with his family to settle near the present town of Maysville, Kentucky. Raised on the frontier, John Colter became an outdoorsman who would favorably compare with the likes of Daniel Boone or David Crockett.

Apparently Colter's frontier upbringing and experiences sufficiently impressed Meriwether Lewis during his recruitment of men for the expedition of the Corps of Discovery. Lewis recruited Colter, offering him the rank of private and a wage of $5 per month.

John Colter along with George Shannon, who at 18 years of age was the youngest man on the expedition, and Patrick Gass, the expeditions carpenter, all waited in Pennsylvania for the completion of the vessels that would take them upriver. While they waited at basecamp in Pittsburgh, Lewis and Clark were away gathering last minute provisions and had left Sergeant John Ordway in command.

It appears as though John's frontier upbringing did not include a course in military protocol or following orders. Colter, along with several other recruits refused to obey orders from Sergeant Ordway. When Lewis returned and was informed of the infraction, Colter and the others were confined for ten days. Not long after, Colter faced a court-martial for threatening to shoot Sergeant Ordway. Following a review of the court, Colter was reinstated pending a formal apology to Ordway and a promise to amend his rebellious ways.

Throughout the expedition, John Colter became known as one of the best hunters of the group and was often charged with venturing out in search of game. His solitary advances ahead of the main party were successful in discovering critical passes through the rugged Rocky Mountains. Colter's parlay with the Nez Perce provided valuable details of waterways that led the expedition further west. And it was Colter, along with a select few, who were chosen by Lewis and Clark to explore beyond the mouth of the Columbia River northward along the shores of the Pacific.

In 1806, after the Corps of Discovery had returned from the coast to the Mandan village in the northern regions of what is now North Dakota, Colter was honorably discharged from the Corps. Lewis and Clark allowed the discharge so that Colter could lead two trappers into the upper Missouri River country in search of beaver. The two trappers, Forest Hancock and Joseph Dickson, partnered with Colter for almost a year while they trapped near the point where the Gallatin, Jefferson and Madison Rivers met, known today as Three Forks. In 1807 John decided to return to civilization but as he approached the mouth of the Platte River he encountered a party of traders led by Manuel Lisa. Many of the traders in Lisa's group were men who had also been with Lewis and Clark and knew Colter. Lisa convinced Colter to lead the party into the mountains, so John turned his back to civilization and ventured into the wilderness once more.

Where the Yellowstone and Bighorn Rivers meet, John Colter helped Manuel Lisa build Fort Raymond, named so after Lisa's infant son, and parlayed with the Crow Indians to establish trade.

During the Lewis and Clark expedition, Captain Lewis shot and killed a Blackfoot Indian who was attempting to steal horses. From that time forward the Blackfoot were sworn enemies of the whites and killed them wherever they were found. John Colter knew of the danger but after he left the Lewis and Clark expedition in 1806 he returned to the Blackfoot country where the beaver were abundant.

Colter and his partner were trapping beaver on a small creek when they were surrounded by hundreds of Blackfoot. Colter knew there was no escape so he went toward the Indians when they motioned for the two trappers to come to the shore. As soon as they reached the shore the Indians seized the rifle that John's partner carried but the trapper wrestled the weapon away, shot and killed one of the Blackfoot warriors. He was immediately shot full of arrows and fell dead into the stream.

Seizing Colter, the Indians stripped him of his clothing and moccasins and began to argue over how they were going to kill him. Some argued for using him as a target, but one of the leaders was more inclined for a more sporting challenge. John Colter spoke enough of the Blackfoot language to understand that the chief had asked him if he was a fast runner. Colter must have had an idea of what was in store for he replied to the chief that he was actually a very poor runner, but even so was one of the fastest runners among the hunters that he knew. The Blackfoot leader then took Colter a few hundred yards away from the group of warriors and then smugly suggested that he should run for his life.

Colter did not hesitate and broke into a sprint as the Blackfoot warriors shouted their war cries and gave chase. It was nearly six miles across the open plains to the banks of the Jefferson River and it was to the river that John Colter was determined to go. Barefooted across the plain, every footfall was met with the sharp spines of cactus but Colter ignored the pain and ran faster than he had ever run before.

John was a little more than three miles away from the river when he dared to look back to see his pursuers. The main group of warriors was more than a few hundred yards behind but one of the Blackfoot was closer than a hundred yards away and gaining. The warrior carried a long, heavy spear and would soon be near enough to use it. Colter renewed his efforts and ran.

When the river was less than a mile away, Colter could hear the footbeats of the Blackfoot behind him. His own feet were filled with cactus spines and blood mixed with dirt was flung behind with each long stride. His lungs felt near to bursting and bright red blood streamed from his nose and down his naked chest. The other Blackfoot were much further back and John realized he had only one chance he must turn and fight.

Colter made a sudden stop, turned round, spread his arms wide and screamed in defiance. The Blackfoot was taken by surprise and must have been shocked at the fierce, blood streaked form before him. Trying to stop himself, the Blackfoot stumbled and fell and using his spear to break the fall snapped the weapon in two. Colter quickly grabbed the blade end of the broken spear and drove it through the fallen warrior's heart, then turned toward the river and ran.

The larger group of Blackfoot had by now gotten much closer and John forced his legs to carry him to the river where he dove into the water. At the upper end of a small island a large raft of driftwood had lodged on the islands edge and John was able to swim under it and managed to find a small opening where he could breathe and yet be hidden.

For several hours the Blackfoot warriors searched the rivers edge and walked over the tangle of driftwood as they searched for Colter. Finally the warriors gave up the search when darkness fell. John left the tangle of driftwood and swam downstream. Once clear of any threat John pulled himself out of the river. Exhausted, naked, sore footed and unarmed John Colter walked for 11 days to the nearest trader's fort on the Little Big Horn.

In 1810 John Colter returned to St. Louis. He had been in the wilderness for nearly six years.

M. Timothy Nolting is an award winning Nebraska columnist. To contact Tim, email; [email protected]