Empyrean's Fallen Angel Sweet Stout

Lincoln’s Empyrean brewery has never feared jousting with the many flavors and genres of beer, from India Pale Ales to Extra Special Bitters to darker porters and stouts.

Their Fallen Angel is an attempt at the old milk stout, a robust, silky and sweet style. And it indeed lounges on the palate, plush as a suede jacket.

On the nose it promises a roasted, bittersweet, evening by the hearth with a cup of hot cocoa experience. Aromas of espresso, chocolate, toast and sugary malt dominate—all expressions you would expect from a stout on the sweeter side.

Some of this recurs when sipped. Dark roasted coffee, lactose and fresh southern biscuits come to mind initially. There are subtle hints of overripe berries if you look for them, as well. The impression is of creamy latte, leading to a bitter (though not overtly so) finish.

But the brewmasters at Empyrean tied down and subdue the promised sweetness, making Fallen Angel dryer than many milk stouts on the market.

Compared to others of this genre, the Nebraska brand might seem middling at best. But I sampled Fallen Angel on tap, served far too cold.

Unfortunately, American bars habitually treat subtle brews as if they were Bud Light or Miller—brands best served by a blast of palate-numbing ice. As it warms, Empyrean’s sweet stout smoothes, gaining balance.

It is not a great beer. However, Fallen Angel is simple and easy to enjoy.