A Touch of Taste

FOOD:

Anong’s Thai Cuisine

620 Central Avenue

Cheyenne, Wyo.

307-638-8597

Open: Daily 11 a.m.-3 p.m., 5 p.m.-9 p.m.

Anong’s Thai Cuisine opened on March 16, and you can tell.

Two or three bites into our appetizers, a waitress arrived with the entrees, forcing an untidy moment as several hands shoved plates around the overcrowded table.

The intrusion exposed a flaw unfortunately common to new restaurants: service slip ups.

Staff members still learning the fine art of expediting often fail to communicate between the floor and kitchen and dinner guests take the brunt, gobbling down portions as quickly as possible or watching their plates congeal.

Too bad—for the cooking at Cheyenne’s outpost of the Rawlins and Laramie institution deserves contemplation.

Their version of the Laotian import known as larb is astounding.

Breezy, tropical lime dances around the incisive step of crisp onion.

Mellow toasted rice calms a hint of searing chile.

There may even be a touch of pungent nam pla in the mix, for an inscrutable, intriguing tone seeps through the whole.

And all of this roils restlessly over an earthy base of coriander, dusty spice and—in our case—shards of tender beef.

It’s bold and intricate at the same time.

You can, therefore, forgive the introduction of romaine in place of the familiar cabbage.

Ginger—perhaps they felt galangal too gentle—and lemongrass in the tom kha strides across your palate with aggression in mind, only to be reined in and soothed by coconut milk and placid mushroom.

The chicken in this warming soup absorbs these flavors, becoming cushy and complex.

Yeah, they ditch the kaffir leaves and supplement the broth’s sharp backbone with lemon juice.

Again, the soup is so engaging you can shrug off little departures from tradition.

Too often Thai restaurants on this side of the world emphasize spicy heat.

Anong’s understands that even the most fiery dishes build from layers of more interesting flavors, and each should be discernable to the palate.

The menu includes favorites such as tom yum, the familiar hot and sour soup found all across southeast Asia, massaman curry, spicy basil leaves and more.

Owner Angong Larsen grew up in Thailand and nine years of restaurant experience in Wyoming has made her and her staff adept at meeting the demands of authenticity and local expectations.

There are a few missteps, here and there.

Crispy duck suffers from a sweet and sour sauce so pedestrian in nature you might find it on a bargain shelf at the supermarket.

Yet the meat itself is beautifully rustic, with a rich and musty center, frayed smoky edges and a brittle crust.

For the most part, however, the kitchen turns out absorbing dishes.

When larb or tom kha arrives at the table, conversation soon dwindles as attention focuses on vibrant flavors.

Even when a off note sounds—the plodding sauce on the glistening noodles in their pad Thai—something will call out to save the moment.

Anong’s occupies a handsome space south of the tracks, in what was once a Mexican restaurant.

The portions are sizeable and the prices fair.

Two people can overindulge for less than $50.

In a few weeks, Anong’s Thai Cuisine will shake off its opening month service jitters.

When the front of the house aligns with the kitchen, the Cheyenne location should become as renowned as those in Laramie and Rawlins.

DRINK:

Dalmore 12 year single malt

Once upon a time, Dalmore 12 year old scotch ranked as the best single malt for the price conscious. When the distillery changed its aging process, splitting evenly the spirit’s time in bourbon and sherry casks, Dalmore disappeared from shelves.

The new malt, which arrived in 2008, sacrificed some of its highland heft in favor of an approachable, almost timid dram.

It sends sweet, floral impression to the nose, weighted by something akin to burnt fruitcake and candied orange peel. Work hard enough, and you also pick up on rye, espresso and the subtle sting from the sherry cask.

On the palate Dalmore’s 12 is almost feeble at first. Rounded and smooth, the spirit seems unable to make up its mind, wavering for a moment before soft flavors emerge—caramel, citrus and scorched butter initially, then harsher reminders of wood and alcohol. The astringent sensation of sherry wood lingers at the back of your throat, giving the malt a nice, bittersweet finish.

It’s almost too demure for a highland spirit. Yet it’s also casual and easy to sip. If they would only slap the 2003 price tag back on the bottle, it might be worth another look.